- Pentax Digital Spot Meter User Manual Free
- Pentax Digital Spot Meter User Manual Instructions
- Pentax Spotmeter On Amazon
- Pentax Digital Spotmeter Instruction Manual
- Pentax Digital Spot Meter User Manual 2017
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An Overview of the Pentax Digital Spot Meter. The Pentax digital spot meter is a tool prized by photographers the world over for its precision and for being easy to use. Beloved by Ansel Adams, the Pentax spot meter is one of the most iconic precision instruments in photography, and eBay is the place to find these light meters quickly, easily. Honeywell Pentax 1 21 Spot Meter Service Manual Read/Download Vs Nikon Dslr Sony Digital Dvd Camera Honeywell Pentax 1 21 Spot Meter File Transmitter Wft-E7 Manual Canon Digital Camera Authorised Service. Manuals and free owners instruction pdf guides. Find the user manual and the help you need for the products you own at ManualsOnline.
Download ny cdl manual. ChrisA
Member
12 yearsMember
South West London
Pentax Digital Spot Meter User Manual Free
Why does it command such high prices?
There's one about to go for £300 or more, and this is pretty typical, from what I've seen recently.
Why is it so desirable?
There's one about to go for £300 or more, and this is pretty typical, from what I've seen recently.
Why is it so desirable?
gartmore
Pentax User Team
13 yearsPentax User Team
Glasgow, Scotland
Highly desirable because it is unique, other spot meters- and there aren't many of them - aren't as narrow or as accurate. They are used a lot by TV land movie ighting directors as well as photographers. Spot metering along with knowledge and skill will give far better results than matrix reflected metering. www.spotmetering.com
Personally, I prefer incident metering and hardly ever use my (Minolta) spot meter. Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Personally, I prefer incident metering and hardly ever use my (Minolta) spot meter. Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
ChrisA
Member
12 yearsMember
South West London
gartmore wrote:
Highly desirable because it is unique, other spot meters- and there aren't many of them - aren't as narrow or as accurate. They are used a lot by TV land movie ighting directors as well as photographers. Spot metering along with knowledge and skill will give far better results than matrix reflected metering. www.spotmetering.com
Highly desirable because it is unique, other spot meters- and there aren't many of them - aren't as narrow or as accurate. They are used a lot by TV land movie ighting directors as well as photographers. Spot metering along with knowledge and skill will give far better results than matrix reflected metering. www.spotmetering.com
Maybe it's just that my knowledge and skill aren't up to scratch, but spot metering doesn't seem to be what it used to be with film.
More often than not, I find now that the thing I want to spot meter is a lot darker than the background, so the sky (as it usually is) ends up getting horribly burned out, which ruins the shot.
So what practical use is it with digital these days, where it's more important to expose for the highlights, and then pull detail out of the shadows?
gartmore
Pentax User Team
Pentax User Team
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13 yearsGlasgow, Scotland
Hi Chris,
There is more, a lot more to this, than appears at first glance. In film terms you have to know and understand the gamma and D Log E curve of the film (forgive me if you know this but I'm sure lots of people who might read this might be unfamiliar with the terms) This is a graph which plots density (of the exposed film) against the logarithm of exposure resulting in a curve a bit like this _/ (with another horizontal line going l to r at the top). The angle of the diagonal portion describes 'gamma' - in effect the contrast ratio of the film/developer combination and the idea is to place the exposure somehere on that line before highlights on the right and shadows on the left encroach onto the more horizontal parts of the
line. (crushed shadows and burnt out highlights)
You meter highlights, mid tones and shadows.
Digital media is even less forgiving given the restricted dynamic range.
For 90% of general stills work we can use the built in meter with confidence but, again knowledge and skill play their part.
I have never seen anyone on a film location or studio use general reflected light readings (the cameras dont have meters) by hand, there is just too much at stake professionally and financially to get it wrong.
Ken Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
There is more, a lot more to this, than appears at first glance. In film terms you have to know and understand the gamma and D Log E curve of the film (forgive me if you know this but I'm sure lots of people who might read this might be unfamiliar with the terms) This is a graph which plots density (of the exposed film) against the logarithm of exposure resulting in a curve a bit like this _/ (with another horizontal line going l to r at the top). The angle of the diagonal portion describes 'gamma' - in effect the contrast ratio of the film/developer combination and the idea is to place the exposure somehere on that line before highlights on the right and shadows on the left encroach onto the more horizontal parts of the
line. (crushed shadows and burnt out highlights)
You meter highlights, mid tones and shadows.
Digital media is even less forgiving given the restricted dynamic range.
For 90% of general stills work we can use the built in meter with confidence but, again knowledge and skill play their part.
I have never seen anyone on a film location or studio use general reflected light readings (the cameras dont have meters) by hand, there is just too much at stake professionally and financially to get it wrong.
Ken Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
pentaxian450
Member
11 yearsMember
North of Montreal,Quebec, Canada
Actually, what it means is that you take readings of the highlights, shadows and midrange, and, from there you can see how many EV points there are between the brightest and darkest area of the scene, so you can figure out the best compromise to get the maximum of details in your picture. You can also more easily bias your exposure toward the shadow or highlight end of the spectrum, taking into account what is more important for you. Hople you can figure out if it is worth the investment for you!
ChrisA
Member
12 yearsMember
South West London
pentaxian450 wrote:
Actually, what it means is that you take readings of the highlights, shadows and midrange, and, from there you can see how many EV points there are between the brightest and darkest area of the scene, so you can figure out the best compromise to get the maximum of details in your picture. You can also more easily bias your exposure toward the shadow or highlight end of the spectrum, taking into account what is more important for you. Hope you can figure out if it is worth the investment for you!
Actually, what it means is that you take readings of the highlights, shadows and midrange, and, from there you can see how many EV points there are between the brightest and darkest area of the scene, so you can figure out the best compromise to get the maximum of details in your picture. You can also more easily bias your exposure toward the shadow or highlight end of the spectrum, taking into account what is more important for you. Hope you can figure out if it is worth the investment for you!
Yes, this makes a lot of sense, thanks to you and Gartmore for taking the trouble. It's not going to be high on my pre-lottery win priority list, but I understand the principle much better now.
gartmore
Pentax User Team
Pentax User Team
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13 yearsGlasgow, Scotland
If you really want a stick to beat yourself with, you can always use the camera's spot function to the same effect Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
pentaxian450
Member
11 yearsMember
North of Montreal,Quebec, Canada
gartmore wrote:
If you really want a stick to beat yourself with, you can always use the camera's spot function to the same effect
If you really want a stick to beat yourself with, you can always use the camera's spot function to the same effect
Actually, the spotmeter on the K10D is 2.5 degrees vs. 1 degree for a 'real' spotmeter, plus I'm not sure the center circle of the focusing screen is really where the 'spot' is perfectly located on the K1k0D, so the precision might not be the same.
MattMatic
Pentax User Team
17 yearsPentax User Team
Sussex, UK
But with what lens????
It can be 1 degree with the right lens - a 148mm lens according to the website
Matt http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
pentaxian450
Member
11 yearsMember
North of Montreal,Quebec, Canada
MattMatic has a valid point concerning the focal lenght, but there is still no guarantee the spotmeter of the K10D is perfectly centered, then the longer the focal lenght, the bigger the mistake. But it is rather easy to check the centering with a narrow led in front of a black background. I checked mine, and it is slightly below the center of the viewfinder screen (not by much, but..).
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The metering modes of your Pentax SLR explained.
08/02/2013 - 14:26
Your Pentax digital SLR camera, and all the Pentax autofocus film SLRs before it, has a choice of metering modes. Choosing the most appropriate mode for the subject you shoot can speed up your picture taking process and ensure you get better results first time, but even though these are auto measuring modes it pays to know what the system is doing so you can interfere and make minor adjustments to ensure even better photos.Pentax Digital Spot Meter User Manual Instructions
The popular metering modes are centre weighted (also known as average), multi pattern (also know as matrix or segment metering) and spot. Some cameras have partial metering option which is a less precise version of spot. The modes are shown as icons and in the camera dial close up below are, from left to right, spot, centre-weighted and multi-pattern.
Centre weighted metering
Centre weighted is the pattern Pentax chose to include in their 1960s Spotmatic cameras and was the same system adopted by most manufacturers. It's the most straightforward and takes a general average meter reading from a large proportion of the recording area. It's an oval shape and sensitivity increases towards the centre, so if it was viewed as a graph it would look a bit like a mountain. This metering pattern was designed with a landscape format in mind, placing a slight bias towards the ground to avoid the bright sky causing underexposure. It's the setting that most cameras are set to as default. Centre weighted is good for average scenes where there's no challenges for the camera to cope with. General landscapes, especially with a small amount of sky, evenly lit interiors, building shots and people pictures where the background is a similar tone are fine for the basic centre weighted pattern.
Spot metering
Then Spot metering came along. This has a much smaller measurement area so precise readings can be taken. It's best for use in extreme lighting conditions, such as a person against a bright sky or a light flower against dark foliage. Spot metering can be pointed at the specific area of interest and a more accurate reading taken. Spot metering is good for stage lit subjects, wildlife photography, sports and other genres where the main subjects is either in spotlight with a dark background or surrounded by a much brighter background.
Multi-pattern metering
As computer technology evolved, camera manufacturers became more concerned about providing more accurate metering and in 1983 Nikon introduce the first camera with multi-pattern metering called the FA. This was to change the way we used cameras.Multi-pattern has the screen split up into a matrix of regions, each taking a meter reading and then evaluating the result using the camera's micro processor to assess the kind of photo you're taking and adjust exposure to suit.
Multi-pattern metering is good for most kinds of photography, giving similar results to centre weighted in average situations while providing more accurate results in complex scenes.
The poppy illustration above is from a 16 segment meter of an older Pentax SLR.
The illustration to the right is the latest and most advanced 77 segment grid used in the Pentax K-5.
While it's certainly the best as it can tell when a subject is back lit or a small part that you're focusing on is darker than the rest, it still makes mistakes.
And that's true of all modes. Auto exposure, no matter how sophisticated, can still be fooled. And here's why.
A meter no matter how sophisticated is designed to convert what it measure into an average tone. So any reading is automatically adjusted so the camera records an 18% grey neutral tone.If the subject is predominately white such as snow or bride in wedding dress, the meter will try to make them grey. Likewise, if the subject is dark such as a black cat on a dark sofa or a Welsh slate mine in the rain, it will try to make them grey.
Take the snow scene below. It's a point and shoot photograph taken using each of the three metering modes.
Centre-weighted | Multi-pattern |
Spot reading from dark area (trees) | Spot reading from light area (snow) |
Notice how all but the spot reading taken from the trees has resulted in dark snow. And the spot reading from the trees has resulted in the trees being slightly over exposed with bright snow that lacks detail. Three types of metering and all failed to give the perfect exposure in this scene. Fortunately with digital photography, if your exposure is close you can tweak the levels, brightness & contrast, highlights & shadows or curves using image editing software and end up with a better photograph. Below is a slightly tweaked multi-pattern shot that's lightened the snow just enough to hold detail, while keeping the trees naturally darker than the spot reading.
To get the scene right in camera you have to override the meter to ensure the subject is recorded faithfully. That's why you may have read that snow needs more exposure - nearly two stops! The good thing about digital is you can shoot and view the result on your LCD screen and if it's too dark or too light, adjust the exposure using the manual settings or exposure compensation dial.
Metering mode was introduced in new SLR camera this technology was much famous among the younger I also use this feature. I wrote an article on https://aussiessayservices.com/myassignmenthelp-com-review/ this forum about this feature so others can get this also.
Pentax Spotmeter On Amazon
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It has been said that the Pentax digital SLR camera, and all the Pentax autofocus film SLRs formerly it, has a choice of modes metering. I like thewritinghorsetyler.com in the essay. Selecting the most suitable mode for the subject you have took, you can increase your picture taking procedure and confirm that you get good fallouts initial time.
Pentax Digital Spot Meter User Manual 2017
Really good explanation of the different metering modes. Perfect for newbies like me. You can market a different aspect depending on what you choose to highlight within the frame. Thanks.
Pentax Digital
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